Ancient Ireland




Headford, County Galway, 1775-1901


A Lone Woman In Ireland.,
Page 6 of 13


The Piper

The Piper

As to myself, my desire has always been to conform as much as possible to the ways of living of those among whom I may be, and, furthermore, to endeavor never to appear richer than I am. I had resolved, therefore, on my arrival in Galway, to purchase or hire a car and pony, and, with one who should be at once guide and driver, go where my fancy might direct. Having confided my intention to the sepulchral waiter at the hotel, I desired him to find me a reliable individual who might serve my purpose. He was not long in doubt as to whom to present. In an hour’s time he introduced to me my old acquaintance of the railway I station. His bright eyes lost none of their lustre by daylight, and his merry face smiled a thousand blessings before his tongue, quick as it was, could utter them. He had a broad face, to which a pug-nose gave an inimitable I expression of pertness and readiness, a tuft of gray whiskers on either cheek, and curly hair that straggled from under the rim of a hat placed jauntily on the back of his head. A pair of worn corduroy knee-breeches incased his bandy-legs, which were quite out of proportion with his square, robust body. A bargain was soon concluded. Flanigan—such was the name of my coachman—was for a certain number of shillings per day to conduct me over the mountains and moors of Connemara till I should weary of them or of him. The pony, he assured me, was trustworthy, and the car the most comfortable vehicle in the round world, on which you could have the wind either in your face or on your back, and with a neat well between for luggage. After one succeeds in persuading one’s self that the wind and rain are not disagreeable, and that every lurch of the vehicle will not deposit one on the road-side, Flanigan—s estimate of an Irish car may be fully accepted. I may here state I never had occasion to regret my agreement with Flanigan; at the same time, traveling in Ireland, it is well to make one’s bargains beforehand, although an Irish gentleman assures me such is not the case in Scotland, as the following incident, from his own experience, proves:

Traveling with his family in the Highlands, they were landed, along with an English party-one of whom was energetic in impressing upon every one that he was not to be imposed upon-from a steamer on the border of a lake, and were to continue the journey on ponies. The Englishman was soon in an excited controversy about the fare, when my friend was asked by a worthy gillie whether he desired ponies.

“Certainly,” he replied, and on the assurance that they would be immediately furnished, felt much relieved.

“I say!’ exclaimed the Englishman, “you have ruined our bargain. We were endeavoring to bring this fellow to reasonable terms, when you engage him without even asking the price.”




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